Installing a lighting dimmer switch

February 21st, 2008

One of the easiest and most inexpensive ways to change the mood of a room, or put the finishing touches on a new renovation, is to install a dimmer switch.  It’s a fairly easy operation even for a novice as long as safety rules and the installation steps are closely followed.  The following instructions are for the installation of a single-pole dimmer (meaning there is only one light switch controlling a particular set of lights, as opposed to multiple switches).

The first thing to do is decide on the type of dimmer switch you want to install.  There are generally four types, and the differences are mainly cosmetic. The options are dial, slide, touchpad, and the combination light switch/slider.  I personally prefer the light switch/slider type because it has the most subtle appearance and blends in well with the other non dimmer switches in my home.  The dial and the slider type switches are more susceptible to damage by bumping into them.  It’s all a matter of personal preference though.

Dial   gylder.gif176091.jpgdiva-copy.jpg

One thing to consider when selecting your switch is to ensure that you are not overloading it.  What that means is that the combined wattage of all of the lights it is controlling should not exceed it’s wattage rating.  For example, if the dimmer has a maximum capacity of 600w, you don’t want to have it controlling more than 6 x 100w bulbs, or 12 x 50w bulbs.  Otherwise it will likely overheat and fail, needing replacement.  If you have a requirement that exceeds the rating, you’ll want upgrade to a 1000w dimmer.  Either way, you’ll want to stay roughly less than 90% of the maximum load to be on the safe side.

Now that you’ve selected your dimmer, installing it is fairly straightforward.  Most dimmers on the market come with installation instructions, and are generally all similar in the installation steps required. 

The most important first step is to shut off the breaker controlling that switch.  DO NOT even attempt to remove the wall plate of your old switch without doing this.   Once the power is off, remove the wallplate, and unscrew the switch and pull it out slightly without disconnecting the wires.  Take a look at the number of wires that are attached.  If you see two insulated wires attached to two screws (terminals) of the same color, usually gold, you’re dealing with a single-pole switch.  You may also see a bare copper wire, which is the ground.  If your setup doesn’t look like this, put it back in and consult an electrician, as you may be dealing with a more sophisticated setup.

Proceed to disconnect the wires from the current switch.  On some of the newer model switches, the wires are not attached to the screws, but actually inserted into tiny slots in the back of the switch.  If that’s the case, you need to insert a small thin object, such as a straightened paperclip, into the to release slots just below wire slots and push.  At the same time, you can pull that particular wire from its slot.

Your new dimmer should have three wires coming out of its back; two black and one green.  Using the wire caps that came with your dimmer, connect each black wire to one of the insulated wires, and the green wire to the bare copper wire.  It doesn’t matter which black wire goes with which, as long as black is with black.  There may be cases out there where the wall switch is at the end of an wiring run, and one of the attached wires will be a white one instead of black.  Treat the white wire in this case as if it was black.  In fact, if no one has done so, take a little strip of black electrical tape and wrap it around a small section of the white wire.  This will let the next person working on the box know that they’re dealing with a “hot” white wire. 

Ok where where, we?  The way to connect the dimmer wires to the house wires is to carefully wrap the thinner dimmer wire around the straightened and exposed tip of the house wires.  If the wires ends were hooked to go around the screws of the old switch and you are having difficulty straightening them, nip them off with a wire cutter than strip off about 3/8″ of the insulation with a wire stripper.  Take the wire cap, and twist it onto the end of the wire, ensureing that it’s a tight fit, and that most of the dimmer wire is now hidden underneath the wire cap.  Pull on the end of the cap slightly to ensure that it’s not loose.  Repeat this process for all three wires.

20040601_dimmerswitchkm_page006img001.jpg 

When the wires are secure, bend them in the middle and insert them back into electrical box without loosening the wire caps.  Then mount the dimmer switch followed by the wall plate.  Turn the power back on at the breaker, and test the dimmer to ensure that it works.  You’re done! 

Remember to read and follow the instructions supplied with your breaker very carefully.  If the breaker trips when you turn the power back on, you may have done something incorrectly.  Turn the breaker off again, remove the switch and inspect your work.  Make sure that none of the wire caps have fallen off.

Top 10 Home Inspection Nightmares

February 14th, 2008


 

Here’s an interesting collection of some shocking and humorous photos taken by home inspectors in various homes.  Courtesy of THIS OLD HOUSE.

  

10. Window Crack Painting

A home seller creatively painted a branch on a bathroom windowpane that included a crack.

Cracked Window

Richard Petzold
Assured Home Inspections
Knoxville, Tenn.

  

  

9. Duct Tape Sewer

During an inspection, this was found behind an access panel in a basement. Duct tape and a terry cloth towel really didn’t stop the smell of the sewer gas.

Duct Tape Sewer

Charlie Rice
Pillar to Post
Sykesville, Md.

  

  

8. Medusa’s Junction Box

Why even install a junction box if all the junctions are on the outside? What’s worse is that this was the handiwork of a licensed contractor, with a permit, and had been signed-off by the local municipal inspector.

Wires

Garet Denise
Cornerstone Inspection, LLC
Littleton, Colo.

  

7. Shower and wipe or wipe and shower?

This is photo of a freshly remodeled bathroom that was found on a recent inspection. Finding a window in a shower stall is fairly common in old homes around here. The outlet in the shower is not so common but it might come in handy if the in-laws overstay their welcome. What was completely unacceptable is the toilet paper dispenser in the shower. This gives wet wipe a whole new meaning! 

Shower

Matt Fisher
Sherlock Homes Inspection Service Inc.
Bloomington, Ind.

6. Sprinkler Spaghetti

This was actually advertised as a sprinkler system on the real estate brokers’ site.

sprinkler.jpg

Brandon Dyles
Picture Perfect Inspections
Bartlett, Tenn.

  

5. Full Exposure

Here is the latest in electrical wiring techniques for dryer hookups. He probably ran out of electrical tape in the middle of this project. It is interesting to note that this had been this way for some time, and that the recent inspection by the municipal inspector failed to mention it as a problem. Our guess is that the homeowner turned off the breaker before connecting this, or he never would have survived the 240-volt jolt.

inspection-nightmares-17.jpg

Charles H. Nance
P.E., CHN Inspections, LLC
Wildwood, Mo.

4. Eeewww!

When the toilet was flushed, water and whatever spurted out around this old water bottle.inspection-nightmares-19.jpg

Daniel Dunham
Englewood Home Inspections

 3.  No support

Another I-beam fiasco. The beam is too short, the pocket cut into the foundation is too deep, and that pile of shims is a dicey quick fix. Let’s hope there is never an earthquake near this house!!

inspection-nightmares-20.jpg

Stephen Giesen
Home Survey, Inc.

 

 

2. What a Trip

This bathroom outlet is not a GFCI. Thank providence, this homeowner had the presence of mind to leave all of the tags on, advising of potential shock hazard.

inspection-nightmares-011.jpg

Charles A. Gabriels
InspectionsRus

 

 

1. I Smell a Rat

This is a photograph of a rat that entered an electrical panel through an open knockout. When it came in contact with the grounded box, it got fried!

inspection-nightmares-01.jpg

Luciano Marquez
Mr. Home Inspector
Union City, N.J.
 

 

How difficult is it to paint my own house?

February 12th, 2008

Original photo: http://www.flickr.com/photos/68519691@N00/175562887 

So those stark white walls are starting to remind you of an insane asylum.  Or perhaps you’ve come to the realization that florescent pink in your living room just isn’t that “in” anymore.  Regardless of your reasons, applying a fresh coat of paint to your house is the highest impact home improvement and renovation project that you can undertake.  It’s also one of the most economical.  And for the do-it-yourselfer, it can easily be done over a weekend if you plan it properly.  I personally have gone from someone who couldn’t even properly open a can of paint without getting splattered, to someone who can tackle any painting project with confidence and ease.  The key is proper planning and patience.  Here is some guidance on how to eliminate the fear factor of taking on a home painting project, and end up with results to make you proud.

1. Develop a vision 

The important thing here is to put your thoughts down on paper.   Selecting colors can be daunting for most people.  What if I don’t like the way the color looks on my walls?  Will it make the room look too dark or too light?  I can speak from personal experience.  Due to tight deadlines and insufficient planning, I ended up painting my kitchen three different colors until I was happy with the result.   I could easily have avoided this had I taken the time to plan it properly.

Some things to ask yourself:
  • Am I aiming for a complimentary colour scheme? 
  • Am I trying to lighten up a small dark space?
  • Am I going to go crazy and go for bold colors?
  • Have I picked up color samples and sample size containers jars I can test on the walls?
  • How much natural sunlight do I get in the room I’m painting?
  • What type of sheen should I go with?  Eggshell, Semi-gloss, etc.
  • Will the colors match the carpet, broadloom, and furniture?
  • Should I consult decorator or color consultant?  Some paint dealers offer this type of service for free if you buy paint from them.

2. Put together a budget

Paint and paint supplies are fairly inexpensive when you compare them to other building materials, but the costs can add up quickly.

More budgetary considerations:
  • How much are you prepared to spend?
  • How much extra do you have for contingencies.
  • How much paint will you need to buy? (Roughly 400 square feet per gallon)

3. Create a schedule

Creating a schedule is important so that you can ensure you have adequate time to complete the project if you’re taking it on over a weekend, or if another improvement project is dependant on the completion of this one.  Allow adequate time for the pre-paint prep work, and for the paint to dry between coats.  Remember, you have to account for the time required for the paint to dry enough so that it won’t peel right off with the painters tape you put over it, such as when you go from painting the ceiling to painting the walls.

4. Purchase your paint and supplies

Always go for the best quality paint that you can afford within your budget.  I cannot stress this enough… in fact, let me say it again.  ALWAYS GO FOR THE BEST QUALITY PAINT YOU CAN AFFORD.  Cutting corners on the quality of the paint will more often than not cost you more in the long run.  Better quality paint not only requires fewer coats than cheap paint, but the same gallon can will take you farther, and the paint durability will ensure it lasts longer.  It actually works out to the same or less overall cost than if you went with cheap paint.  I personally use Sico Paints for everything.  For an eggshell finish their Cashmere line is second to none.  I also love their Shantung which is more of a semi-gloss and ideal for bathrooms, kitchens, and playrooms.  I’m also a fan of Benjamin Moore paints, which might be easier to find for most people.  Latex or Alkyd (oil based) is the next question everyone wonders about.  A few years ago, oil based paints were far superior to anything that was latex based, but latex has caught up in quality and durability.  The fact that it doesn’t emit harmful vapors and cleans up easily is a huge plus!  Here is a good article on the difference between the two.  A rule of thumb to remember however, is to avoid applying latex paint if the existing walls were done with oil based paint. 

Typical items you’ll need for the job:
  • paint can opener and stir sticks.
  • old newspapers.
  • paint tray and liners.
  • canvas or plastic drop cloths
  • clothes.
  • clean rags.
  • ladder or step ladder.
  • rubber or latex gloves.
  • eye protection.
  • cap - a friend of mine had to shave his head after getting splattered.
  • comfortable but expendable clothing.
  • extension handle.
  • roller and roller brush - the knap thickness you need depends on the existing and preferred wall texture.
  • painters tape - I prefer the lower tack blue tape over the green tape.
  • screwdrivers - don’t forget to remove wall switch and receptacle panels.
  • sanding block.
  • shop vacuum.
  • bucket of water.
  • T.S.P. solution 
  • paintbrushes - I use a variety of sizes and always go for the best I can afford, and I always reuse them.

5. Prepare the surface

Clean the surfaces thoroughly by removing dirt and dust from the walls:
  • add 10 grams of T.S.P. per litre of lukewarm water.
  • rub surface vigorously and work from the bottom up to avoid runs.
  • let the solution work for 2 or 4 minutes.
  • rinse the surface with clean water.
If you have mildew growing on the surface:
  • Put on a pair of rubber gloves, pour 1 litre of bleach per 3 litres of warm water into a bucket.
  • apply solution to the surface working from the bottom up.
  • rub the surface with a stiff bristle brush or scouring sponge.
  • let the solution work for about 10 minutes.
  • rinse with clean water.

 6. Prep the room and surfaces to be painted

  • move furniture out of the way and place drop cloths over the ones you can’t.
  • protect the floor with drop cloths.
  • remove doorknobs,  receptacle and switch plates, light fixtures that might be in the way (don’t forget to turn the breaker switch off)
  • tape edges and anything you don’t want splattered with paint.
  • ensure there is proper ventilation in the room without drafts that could dry the paint unevenly
     
     

7 . Prime and paint the surface

The ideal temperature to apply paint is between 15°C and 25°C (60°F and 77°F) with a relative humidity of between 30% to 55%.  If it’s a very hot and humid or rainy day, it may have some uneven drying issues.

Think of primer as two sided tape.  Once side sticks to your walls, and the other side provides a clean surface for the new paint to adhere to.  Priming is not always necessary on clean, light colored walls, but is highly recommended.  On darker colored walls or new drywall, it’s a must.  One coat of a good quality primer is usually enough.  (unless you’re painting over black paint, or your toddler’s artwork done in permanent marker)

There are several different priming and painting techniques out there, but here’s the one that works for me.

  • Start with the ceiling.
  • always paint toward the narrower side of the room.
  • start in the corner and paint the borders of the ceiling with a brush.

ceiling-paint-1.jpg

  • paint a 2′x4′ section with roller by rolling on a ‘W’.

ceiling-paint-2.jpg

  • without taking the roller off the ceiling fill in the ‘W’ proceed the same way with the other sections working your way backward toward the back of the room, then starting back at the front and to the right of the section you just painted, from forward to back, eventually working your way through the room from left to right.

ceiling-paint-3.jpg

ceiling-paint-5.jpg

  • apply two coats for an even finish.
  •  ceiling-paint-6.jpg

    Painting the walls
    • When the Ceiling has dried, tape the edges of the ceiling where it meets the wall
    • Start in a corner of the room and paint the edges of the wall, one wall at a time.

    wall-paint-1.jpg

    • On the top left side of the starting wall, mark out a section of about 2 x 4 feet with a roller, by drawing a “W.”

    wall-paint-2.jpg

    • Without lifting the roller from the surface, fill in the “W.”

    wall-paint-3.jpg

    • Draw another “W” under the first section.

    wall-paint-4.jpg

    • Fill in the new “W.”

    wall-paint-5.jpg

    • Roll the roller vertically along both sections, since some rollers leave different textures.

    wall-paint-6.jpg

    • Start over next to the section and repeat.

    wall-paint-7.jpg

    • Continue in the same manner with the remaining sections

    wall-paint-8.jpgwall-paint-8.jpgwall-paint-8.jpg

    • Once the wall is complete, move on the next wall.  It’s recommended that when you finish one wall, make sure you have enough paint to complete the next entire wall. If you start with another can of paint in the middle of a wall, it can result in slightly different colors, which may be perceptible side by side, but not wall to wall.
    • After the first coat has been applied and the paint has been allowed to dry (2-4 hours depending on the paint) repeat the entire procedure and apply a second coat of paint.
    Doors, Trim, and Baseboards
    • Once the second coat has been applied to the walls, and has had enough time to dry, apply painter’s tape around the windows, door trim on the recently painted wall portion above the baseboards.
    • Apply the first coat of paint the doors and trim.
    • Once dry, apply second coat.

    8. Cleanup

    Although latex paint is quite forgiving, always clean spills and splatters as soon as possible with a damp cloth you should always keep nearby.  After any given stage, I always put my paint rollers in new garbage bag, wrap them up tightly, and place them in the fridge.  This will allow you to reuse them for the next coat and any required touchups.  I always clean my brushes after every coat by rinsing, applying hair shampoo, and then conditioner.  Rinse thoroughly.  I have painted several coats in  at least six different colors in my entire house using the same brushes.

    Don’t forget to carefully remove the painters tape once you’ve finished painting around it.  The longer you leave it on, the more likely it will peel the paint off with it when it comes off.

    9. Touchup

    Once you’ve cleaned up the bulk of the mess, and have given the paint ample time to dry, go back and look over your work. You’ll likely notice a few areas you need to touch up, Especially around the taped areas.  Some of the paint may have slightly peeled off with the tape.  Just go back with a brush and a small amount of paint, and go over the affected areas.

     Put the wall plates and fixtures back (turn off the breaker!), move the furniture back, and clean up any leftover mess.

    Now you can sit back and admire your handiwork.  I hope this article proves helpful and gives you some confidence to take on this project yourself.   

    Maximize your Renovation Return on Investment

    February 11th, 2008

    So you’ve finally got your eye on a house that meets most of your requirements for a potential dream home, but it still needs a ton of renovations to make it livable by your standards. Or you may have been living in your home for while, and can no longer overlook the dated bathroom, dysfunctional kitchen, or peeling wallpaper. Either way, like most people you’re on a limited renovation budget and you have to make some hard choices on what you’re going to tackle first. The choices you make with regards to your home improvements can have a significant impact on not only your wallet, but the overall resale value of your home.

    According to the National Association of the Remodeling Industry, the highest return on investment on anything you can do on your home is a fresh coat of paint. Here is some more guidance what home improvements will give you the best return on investment:

    Renovation Average Cost Resale Recovery
    Paint $700 200% plus
    Add a Bathroom $10,000 96%
    Add a Fireplace $4,000 94%
    Kitchen Renovation (minor) $8,500 79%
    Kitchen Renovation (major) $24,000 70%
    Bathroom Renovation $7,500 69%
    Add a Skylight $4,000 68%
    New Siding $7,500 67%
    Add Insulation $1,750 65%
    Addition $35,000 62%
    New Roof $4,600 61%
    Deck $6,000 60%
    Greenhouse Addition $17,000 56%
    Replace Windows /Doors $12,000 55%
    Add a Swimming Pool $24,000 39%
    Source: National Association of the Remodeling Industry
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